Welcome to Food Truck Friday! The good folks at Citizens Bank of Edmond are sponsoring food truck reviews in advance of Heard on Hurd, which returns to Edmond March 17. We’ll be looking at trucks you can visit at Heard on Hurd and around the metro.
We’re starting with a fairly new truck that has already tackled one of the toughest items for mobile eateries: the hamburger.
Wicked Hangry is kind of a classic food truck; a silver behemoth with a side door that lifts up to reveal the order window, drink cooler and piles of chips. It’s got miles on it, for sure, but that’s a testament to how much this food is in demand.
And owner Heather Brehm is already working toward the truck’s next act: becoming a brick-and-mortar restaurant.
But that wouldn’t be possible without a solid following of foodies who love the all-beef burgers piled high with specialty toppings.
For something supposedly so simple, a lot of people really screw up hamburgers. It can happen in so many ways — under-seasoned meat is flavorless, over-worked meat is tough and dry — it’s a wonder we eat so many of them.
But when burgers are your main business, you better do them right. And Wicked Hangry has their burgers on lock.
The top seller is the Wicked Burger — a quarter-pound patty topped with cheddar, avocado, bacon, onion strings and house-made Wicked Sauce.
First things first, we need to talk about bacon in relation to cheeseburgers. This is double the difficulty and one place many restaurants fall off. The burger must be juicy and tender. The bacon needs to be crisp. Not burnt. Not floppy. Mahogany brown, crisp and with a slight chew.
Wicked Hangry nails it like Martin Luther with a list of theses. Add that to ripe avocado and sweet, salty onion straws and you’re in business. One nice touch was the finely shredded cheddar, which melted against the burger, but provided hiding places for the Wicked Sauce.
Gouda Rage did the impossible — it made me crave a burger covered in gouda.
I enjoy gouda as a cheese, but it is definitely a powerful flavor. Most times, when added to a sandwich, gouda buries the other flavors and creates a gummy texture. What makes Gouda Rage different is a light hand with the gouda and the application of bacon and roasted red peppers. The peppers add a light sweetness and a cool crunch. The bacon’s flavor compliments the gouda. The only issue I had, and it’s a minor one here, is that the taste of the beef gets a little lost.
Finally, the Power Tripper brings back the gouda, minus the bacon, but adds avocado, sprouts, spinach and Wicked Sauce. This is a California burger of sorts, with avocado and sprouts giving it a light greenness and Wicked Sauce adding a little pop of heat.
The constant among these burgers are carefully handled beef patties cooked perfectly to ensure great texture and a juicy, flavorful bite.
My friend Rachel also noted the quality of the bun, which is a bakery roll sturdy enough to soak up the beef jus without falling to pieces.
In a choice between fries and chips (which you get with every burger), I’d go for the fries. Food truck fries aren’t always this good, but Wicked Hangry turns out potato sticks that are golden crisp outside and fluffy clouds of mash inside.
In a crowded burger marketplace, it’s not easy to stand out. Luckily, Wicked Hangry has figured out the key to making great burgers with tasty toppings in the confines of a truck — something far too many restaurants haven’t mastered with the use of a full kitchen.
Food Truck Friday reviews are brought to you by Citizens Bank of Edmond, which presents the monthly street festival, Heard on Hurd in Downtown Edmond. Heard on Hurd is an authentic block party-style festival that features three dozen food trucks, a live concert with local artists and retail pop-up shops. Edmond has a special vibe of its own and Citizens Bank of Edmond provides an outlet for the Edmond community to shine. Heard on Hurd highlights the importance of supporting local eateries, artists and retailers. At the heart of Heard on Hurd is Citizens Bank of Edmond, which is proud to provide the means for so many local thriving businesses.
The next Heard on Hurd is 6-10 p.m. March 17th at the corner of Broadway and Hurd in Edmond. For updates, follow @HeardonHurd on social media with hashtag #JointheHurd