Chef Curry To Go is one of the best restaurants in Oklahoma City with one of the worst names.
When you break it down it all makes sense, but to your average passerby the name is wildly misleading.
Chef Curry is Kendall Curry, a former executive chef at The Ranch. Curry is his name. His restaurant does not serve Indian or Thai food. That is an issue, considering the number of people who stop in thinking they’re going to get some curry instead of getting some Curry.
Chef Curry To Go has a dining room. He also has a meal prep service (which, yes, I’m planning to review that as well). So while you can get food “to go” at the restaurant, it’s not just a bunch of frozen meals you can come in and take home.
How has this business survived with so much confusion? Easy. Because Kendall Curry makes some really good food. Like, really good.
The regular menu at Chef Curry To Go is excellent and I’m never less than ecstatic with what I receive. But he also creates some of the most tempting specials I have ever encountered.
Last year I got a jalapeno bisque from him that was so delicious I was struck dumb. And if you’ve ever met me, you know being quiet isn’t something I’m good at. I hate to hype up a soup you can’t get on the regular, but I’m hopeful that after reading this review, you’ll become enough of a regular that you’ll stumble upon it the next time it makes an appearance.
It was creamy. It had the slightest hint of heat, slow growing in the back of your throat. But more than anything it was a celebration of the sweet, subtle green of ripe jalapenos.
Ditto for the grilled pork loin ($13.99) I got last week. It rotates in more frequently, so your chances of tasting it are much better, but I would have included it if it was a one-off, because he nailed it.
Pork loin is more forgiving than tenderloin, but I was still impressed with how juicy and tender it was. The red wine sauce he mirrored on the plate soaked into each bite, providing it a lovely sweet richness.
The sweet potatoes were sweet, ever so slightly, but he steered them more into savory territory and I loved every bite. Creamy, with bits of garlic and a buttery flavor that kept me balanced between ravenously scarfing it down and pausing to take in just how wonderful they tasted.
The greens were something to behold. I don’t mind a bacon-rich mess of goopy greens, but these were something else entirely. Vinegar for brightness. Cooked cleanly to eliminate bitterness. The greens were sturdy and tender and possibly even healthy. So, so, so good.
I was tempted to revisit Chef Curry’s wonderful BLT ($8.50) because it is all that is good and right about BLTs — piled high with bacon, layers of crisp lettuce and juicy tomato with the added goodness of caramelized onions for touch of sweetness.
But then Carlisa Curry told me that I really needed to try out Kendall’s club sandwich ($9.95).
At any other restaurant, I would have passed. Club sandwiches are great and all, but I couldn’t remember the last one I was excited to talk about. Well, I’m excited to tell you about this one.
The KC Club comes on your choice of bread (and your choice should be sourdough) with roasted garlic and basil mayo. Layers of ham and turkey, swiss and cheddar cheeses, lettuce and tomato. But the kicker for me was the bacon. It was cooked perfectly, chopped and distributed liberally on the sandwich. No more taking a bite and pulling a whole slice of rubbery bacon out with your teeth. Every single bite gets crispy, tender bacon. Every one.
This isn’t a radical reinvention of the club sandwich. It’s just a sandwich that someone gave a damn about. As another customer once told Chef Curry, “This is a sandwich a chef makes for himself.” And we all deserve sandwiches that good.
If there’s a throughline to the food at Chef Curry To Go, it’s that Kendall Curry is the kind of perfectionist who can’t just make a dish without caring. That shows in every meal I’ve eaten there and I think it’s why his restaurant is still going strong despite a name that continues to confuse potential diners.