I do not really understand why Burrito Baby exists.
84 Hospitality—the restaurant group behind such little-known concepts as Empire Slice House, Goro Ramen, and Burger Punk—already has a fun and casual Mexican eatery at Revolucion, best known for their tacos and very strong drinks.
Burrito Baby is their second Mexican concept, except not really. It’s only available online, for either delivery or pick up. And the food is made at, you guessed it, Revolucion. So why not just be Revolucion and add more burritos to the menu?
I’m sure it’s a marketing thing that I just don’t get. Which is fine. I don’t have to understand everything, or much of anything. I’m here to eat food and write about it. But it is kind of frustrating, because I’d like to have some of those strong Revolucion drinks while eating one of the enormous and delicious Burrito Baby burritos, but I don’t want to get yelled at for trying to order one. Curse this fragile heart of mine!
So, to reiterate the opening, I’m not really sure why Burrito Baby exists, but I’m glad it does, because the Mad Science-chefs of 84 Hospitality have gone full-on bonkers with their very-not-Chipotle menu and I love it.
Burritos are great. They seem like a perfect Oklahoma food, because we’re all obsessed with taking something small that we love and making it so big that it could be used as a weapon. And while your Qdobases and Chipotlers and Freedbirds are all fine, they don’t really do anything fun and weird. But the minds behind Empire Slice House, which taught us all that Brussels sprouts and potato chips belong on pizza, are all about being fun and weird.
Burrito Baby certainly follows that line of thinking. Here you can find giant tortillas stuffed with such esoteric ingredients as Takis, jalapeno poppers, and something called “cauliflower.”
The Flamin’ Hot Taki-Rito ($10) is a forearm-sized meal full of juicy carnitas, refried beans, lettuce, Mexican crema (think sour cream), and Fuego-flavored Takis, which are like Doritos, but rolled up into a cylinder. I added rice to mine, because I like rice. You don’t have to add rice. Please, let’s get past the rice.
I don’t know if this one would be an every-time order, but I liked it a lot. The carnitas are greasy and soft and unctuous in a really delicious way and the contrast with the crunchy chips makes each bite a little adventure. Yeah, that’s how boring my life is: I’m getting endorphins from burritos.
Better still was the Totcho Burrito ($10), but because I’m a meddler and a weirdo, I eschewed the standard ground beef and switched to carne asada for an extra $3. Don’t worry about it. I got my stimulus check.
This is a gut bomb and I love it. Tater tots have a nice crispy-creamy texture and the added chew of the asada made the mouthfeel even more interesting. All the heavy carbs and juicy meat are offset by pickled onions and Mexican crema. I worried the queso would make it stodgy, but the entire burrito was super easy to eat. I really, really love the onions in this. That tart crunch gives the dish the momentum that I crave.
Resident vegetarian and unofficial I Ate Oklahoma contributor Karlie Ybarra got the Vegan ‘Rito ($9) and was very pleased. While she said the cilantro rice was tasty, she could use a little more balance, perhaps with more of the fried cauliflower taking its place.
If you think vegan food can’t be filling, this burrito would like to slap you in the face. In addition to the cauliflower and rice, you get whole black beans, fajita vegetables, lettuce, onions, and guacamole. You can eat healthy and still sit in your chair groaning because you ate too much. That’s the magic of Burrito Baby.
Garbage Time All-Star Ben “Please Just Call Me Ben, I Don’t Need a Nickname, Greg” Luschen got the Hawaii 5-0 ($10) and said it really hit the “Hawaiian flavor profile” well, which I think means he could taste the pineapple pretty clearly. It’s an al pastor burrito, but a lot of the bulk is (again) cilantro rice, along with avocado aioli, fresh chopped jalapenos, lettuce, and lime juice.
If a luau in your mouth sounds good, get it. Ben said he’d likely return to it, but might explore the menu a bit more.
Perhaps he, like me, will try The Firebreather ($10), which gets its name from the grilled hot peppers and habanero salsa hidden among its folds. The protein is chicken and, lest you worry that it’s all sizzle, there’s rice, cheese, and guacamole to help dial down the fire. It can make you sweat if you let it, but I found it to be an overall light addition to the menu. The green flavor of the avocado and the tingly spice of the peppers kept it from weighing down the palate.
On the side, I recommend the chips and queso ($6) and the party taters ($5), which are fried red potatoes with queso, Mexican crema, pico de gallo, and “fajita spice.” Honestly, I kind of want to shove the party taters in the Been and Cheez ($8) burrito and see what’s up.
The jalapeno poppers ($6) with chipotle ranch were fine, though I was kind of expecting cream cheese on the inside instead of melty yellow cheese. Still good, but it wasn’t quite what I was looking for.
And there you have it. Burrito Baby has a limited menu available for pick up or delivery. There’s also a rotating Burrito of the Week I haven’t tried yet, but I wouldn’t be too shocked to find me picking one up in a few days time.
I still don’t quite understand why Burrito Baby isn’t just part of Revolucion proper, but I don’t really need to know. They have good burritos and that’s enough for me.